The ABC's of IPA's (the idiot's guide)
May 05 '01
The Bottom Line IPA is a style quickly growing in appreciation, but few understand its history. Also two different versions seem to be growing on each side of the Atlantic.
The abbreviation IPA is a phrase used much more frequently among brewers and drinkers than the unabbreviated version, India Pale Ale. In marketing terms, the phrase IPA is certainly a little more catchy and less confusing, without invoking images India. No disrespect to the Indian brewing industry, which does carry a few decent Lagers, but India Pale Ale, in fact, has nothing to do with India today, something I will explain a little later.
Characteristics of an IPA
To understand the characteristics of an IPA, you should first understand the basic ingredients of beer and their role. All beers consist of 4 basic ingredients, water, yeast, grain (usually barley), and hops. The grain contains the natural sugars that enable fermentation, and provide the beer with flavor, color, body and texture. Hops prevent bacteria from spoiling the beer and provide a spicy, bitter flavor. The varietals of these ingredients and the proportional mixes of each are what give each beer its unique character. The two measures of these in the brewing world are IBU’s (International Bitterness Units), and ABV% (Alcohol by Volume), something you will see in many beer reviews.
Typical examples:
ABV:
USA Light 2.9-4.4%, Pilsner 4.0-5.5%, Pale Ale 4-5%, Porter 4.3-6.3%
IBU:
American Pilsner 5-15, Pilsner 25-30, Pale Ale 20-50, Porter 20-40
Source: “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Beer”, Stuart A. Kallen
IPA is basically an extension of the better-known Pale Ale, higher in hops (40-60 IBU’s) and alcohol (6-8% ABV). As a result a typical IPA will have a dry, bitter character. There are of course many stronger and more bitter beers, such as Trappist Ales and Barley Wines.
The reason for the IPA-character and name is in the history of its development.
History
In the late 18th century, the British Empire was at the height of its powers. The expatriates of their time, who were busy colonizing India, were unable to walk into a local Irish bar in search of their favorite brews, or log onto the Merchant du Vin website. They had to rely on shipments from blighty to quench their thirst, and consuming Indian water was almost as deadly as a Vindaloo after an all night session.
The colonials’ anticipation for their porter, was almost as bad as mine at the start of every month, waiting for my shipment from Michael Jackson’s Real Beer Tour. Imagine their disappointment though when their beer arrived all shook up and barely drinkable. The problem was that the five-week shipping route around the Cape of Good Hope was a disaster, with rough seas and hundreds of temperature changes.
The development of a new style
George Hodgson, a London brewer, became the biggest name in India since Genghis Khan, when he was accredited with the invention of India Pale Ale, a style which was not only brewed to accommodate the long journey, but also took advantage of the conditions. The higher gravity (alcoholic strength), enabled the beer to slowly ferment, so that they would reach peak condition upon arrival. Fermentation was improved by the movement of the ship, and further benefited from the warmth of the equator. The heavy hop protected the beer from wild yeast infection. The brew became popular, not only with the colonialists, but also on the home market.
English IPA’s Today
The quantity of hop used in the original IPA’s is almost unthinkable by today’s standards, and the alcohol level has also been compromised, now around 5%, only marginally higher than that of a Pale Ale. The Bass museum produced a sample, intensely bitter IPA in 1993 which had its admirers as well as its detesters. At the same time IPA’s are much less known in the UK than in the USA, and have only recently shown a minor revival of interest among brewers.
American IPA’s
IPA’s have been in existence in the States since the mid-1800’s, but only really saw a rise in awareness in the 1980’s. The growth in the microbrew industry has been responsible for the revival of many older styles. I should add that the well-known and popular Sierra Nevada Pale Ale does bear certain hoppy similarities to an IPA. The North-Pacific has been the main area for development of this style, a style that bears much closer resemblance to the original product than current English offerings.
The reason for this has to be in part attributed to the differences in drinking lifestyles between to the two nations. Most British beer is consumed in pubs where offerings are usually limited to Bitter (pale ale), Lager, Guinness and Cider, (Newcastle is usually offered in bottles with 1 or 2 European Pilsners). It could therefore be argued that the British drinker is limited by habit and choice. In the States the majority of drinking is done in the home, and therefore the beer drinker is open to a much wider choice. The British argument is of course a generalization, and one that Richard Drew may argue against. The USA market has also benefited from the microbrew revolution, encouraging drinkers to be a little more adventurous and acquire new tastes, hence the quick adaptation to the highly hopped IPA’s.
Typical Examples
I spent the days prior to this review educating myself not only in the shape of books and the web, but also in the shape of a bottle, four bottles actually.
The English brews were:
Samuel Smith’s: An excellent brew, accented maltiness, smooth, slightly bitter finish.
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_20871024260
Fuller’s: Not to my taste but popular with others, raisin maltiness, medium-light body, dry bitter finish. Although not as much as the Smith’s, also accented by the malt.
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_20971294340
The American brews were:
Anderson Valley Hop Ottin: Light, floral lemon and grapefruit aroma, predominantly citric flavor with bitter finish.
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_20888587908
Pike: Even lighter, brief hints of malt and caramel, strong citric finish that does not completely kill the malt.
http://andaryl.epinions.com/content_1439604868
Goose Island’s version, which I didn’t review, while predominantly citric and hoppy, is a slightly closer to the English version, smoother with its malts being more noticeable.
Other recommendations from Michael Jackson are: Fish Eye, Bombay Bomber, Hophead, Dead Horse and Bengal.
In short if you like your hops you’ll love an American IPA, otherwise try the British versions first as an easier introduction.
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